By CHANTAL DE LA RIONDA
The Unity News Online

About the Takeaway: In this feature, UNITY News Online takes to the streets to uncover which famous Chicago eateries have earned their reputations, and which ones should be put to rest. The second article in the series is Chicago’s delis .

On to our next challenge: the famous Chicago delis. The “Second City” is just as recognized for its mile-high deli sandwiches, as it is for the mustached natives who prepare them.

Perry's Deli attracts customers as ecclectic as its decor.

In fact, we didn’t think it would do justice to visit just one deli, as often the culture of north and south sandwich preparation has a tendency to vary.

While the congenial staff at Perry’s Deli on 174 N. Franklin is surrounded by high rise business buildings, the famous Manny’s Coffee shop & Deli is located at 1141 South Jefferson- a distinctly south side neighborhood- not far from Little Italy’s Taylor Street.

To be completely fair (this is, after all, a highly scientific study), I ordered the same sandwich in both locations, hoping not only to compare northside vs. south side sandwiches, but to explore the culture and differences between the two establishments. I was not disappointed.

Perry's is a lunchtime standard, where friendly conversation is welcome, so long as it's not on a cell phone.

Walking into Perry’s Deli, you’ll find white-collared businessmen taking advantage of their expense accounts, while sitting directly across from laborers on a short break from a hard day of construction. And regardless of the figures of your income, Perry employees will not hesitate to blast an alarm if they catch you on a cellphone. In fact, there are several signs posted along the waiting line walls warning against cellphone usage, as well as a scrolling marquee over the service counter which reads “Malts work better than Viagra.”

Since this was my first visit to a real Chicago deli, I was a overwhelmed by the choices available. While I enjoy the occasional steak, what was promised by Perry’s three-decker sandwich was nothing short of a side of cow.

Boris, the former pro soccer player who purchased the deli from Perry in 2003, instantly recognized my hesitance and narrowed my options from 30 variations to three. I eventually ordered

With orders stacked this high, it's no wonder female customers' sandwiches are half doggy bagged before they even get to the cashier.

As I forked over my eight bucks for a meal- which included a side and sizable pickle- Boris, in his jovial Russian accent assured me I had made the right choice. That was just before he dramatically hacked my sandwich in half and delicately placed a portion of it into a paper bag — a custom which apparently has carried over from it’s original owner as a courtesy to all female patrons.

My extremely positive (and filling!) experience was replicated in the southside cafeteria of Manny’s Coffeeshop and Deli, where an assembly line of jokesters throw slings and jabs as expertly as they do salami slices.

While I was expecting to find a different atmosphere at Manny’s, I again noticed that promises of a

Manny's cafeteria-style line offers pasta, pastrami, and personable jokesters.

Established in 1942, Manny’s offers a free valet and talkative staff. This makes up for their slightly shorter, yet higher priced sandwiches, (with a side dish the bill comes out to about $15).

The Takeaway:

Both of these establishments fully deserve their reputations, each claiming to be the “Best Deli in Chicago.” North side Perry’s, with its helpful staff and boisterous shuffling, gets a 4.5 out of 5 for their sandwiches, while Manny’s earns a 4 out of 5, for equally delicious food (try the potato pancakes!) but higher prices.

Patrons like Terry Buckley enjoy Manny's cornbeef and pastrami sandwiches.

Chantal de la Rionda works at National Public Radio and is a mentor in the online unit of The UNITY News.

topic: Chicagoland

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